1942: Textiles

Virtually all the problems that beset the various categories of textiles during 1942 stemmed from the war effort, and while none of these was as acute as those in the durable or hard goods lines, they were serious enough to slow up both production and distribution in some branches of the industry.

Cotton.

In point of actual yardage, cottons comprise the major portion of American textile output and consumption. Production of raw cotton during 1942 established a new all-time high — amounting to nearly 13,000,000 bales, an increase over 1941 of about 1,000,000 bales. From 75 per cent to 80 per cent of this cotton was handled under Government priority control, and about 50 per cent of it went directly into military channels.

Total production of cotton cloth reached another record figure, totaling approximately 12,000,000,000 square yards, an increase of around 17 per cent over 1941.

While in normal times over-production is the major problem in cottons, the chief concern for the duration of the war will be to get an adequate share of the total output to take care of legitimate civilian requirements.

Wool.

Never before has the inventory stock pile of raw wool been as large as it was at the close of 1942. Although most of this was American owned, a fairly large portion (imported from Australasia) was under the joint control of the American and British Governments. This enormous quantity in reserve had been accumulated as a precautionary measure — in the possible (but not probable) event that the import situation might become more involved.

But as a further safeguard on raw wool reserves, the Government bought the entire Uruguayan wool clip, and large purchases were made in other South American countries. Carpet wools are becoming very scarce, the bulk of this class of wools coming from China. Consumption of wool by the fabric manufacturing trades was about 40 per cent above a normal year, this because of military uniform requirements.

Because of basic raw wool diversion to war uses, civilian men's and boys' clothing manufacturers were seriously handicapped, and production in this field slumped appreciably. Employment diversion to the military services and defense plants was also a factor, as in other branches of civilian industry.

Government restrictions covering various classes and types of clothing had its effect in materially curbing civilian output and this trend is apt to become more pronounced as the war progresses.

Advance of Rayon.

Rayon yarns and fabrics became more important than ever last year, both production and consumption achieving new values in both civilian and military fields.

Because of the tighter wool situation and the gradual withdrawal of both silk and nylon in the hosiery trades, rayon demand far exceeded available stocks. The high tenacity yarns, which will prove of increasing interest in all sorts of civilian wear after the war, were commandeered by the Government for various war uses.

These special yarns, it was known in hosiery manufacturing circles, would make rayon hosiery vastly more acceptable to the consuming public if they were available for use in hosiery manufacture, but the hosiery industry, for the duration at least, will have to make the most of what the rayon yarn manufacturers are at liberty to furnish them.

One of the most far-reaching results of war shortages in certain types of natural textile fibers will be the 'substitute' or 'alternate' materials that are being (and will continue to be) synthetically produced. Chemistry has already had a revolutionary effect on textiles, and leading textile authorities believe that more startling surprises are in store for the near and extending future.

Nylon.

Few people outside the textile markets, for example, realize the wide and effective uses that will eventually be made of nylon. This new chemical yarn will find its way, in due course, in almost every textile category, according to experienced observers in various branches of the industry. And so certain are hosiery manufacturers of the ultimate (after-the-war) dominance of nylon in their field, that they are convinced silk will never again loom as a serious competitor.

Apparel.

The dress manufacturing industry suffered less than any other branch of textiles through much of 1942, but during the last three or four months of the year was definitely handicapped by increasing material shortage, and a tightening of the labor market.

This latter difficulty, as a matter of fact, is making itself more acutely felt in every branch of the textile industry, just as it is in most other business fields — because of the continuing diversion of civilian workers into either the armed forces or plants manufacturing the various sinews of war.

In the apparel fields, both men's and women's, efforts were made to further curtail what some government officials referred to as 'frills,' and it was even suggested that an effort be made to 'de-glamorize' women's clothes for the remainder of the war.

It was not thought, in well informed quarters of the women's apparel market, that the proposal would get very far, for it would be vigorously opposed by both the producing trades and the consuming public, on the plausible grounds that it would not only fail to accomplish its assumed purpose (to aid the war effort) but would have a generally negative influence on morale.

A report on textiles for 1942 would be incomplete without brief reference to the Government's 'Inventory Limitation' Order, issued through the War Production Board, and covering both manufacturers and retailers. The real effect of this new control measure will not be felt until the spring of 1943 when inventories must be in line with the prescribed formula.

During the last half of 1942 there were persistent reports that both producers and retailers (at least a large number in each category) had accumulated vast inventories, even renting, in some instances, extra warehouse space to take care of these abnormal reserves. Textiles play an important part in these reserves, and the new regulation was aimed at relieving small retailers who had presumably been 'squeezed' out, particularly in certain areas.

1941: Textiles

Because of steadily increasing Government requirements and the rapid resultant rise on consumer purchasing power, all types of textiles established new high production and consumption records during 1941.

So pronounced was this accelerated upward swing that wholesale operations in cottons, wool goods and rayons shifted, for the first time in more than two decades, from a buyers' to a 'sellers' market,' and prices advanced so rapidly that the price ceilings imposed by the Office of Price Administration earlier in the year had been extended to embrace a major portion of all textile fabrics by the latter part of December.

American textile productive capacity has long been far in excess of normal peace-time requirements. Even with the new and mounting demands from the nation's armed services, it seemed to many market observers that reported shortages were greatly exaggerated, while in one or two instances they were wholly artificial. Pressing their advantage in these alleged scarcities, speculators in unfinished fabrics held out for higher and still higher prices, until the Government price control authorities felt obliged to impose a 'freezing' order covering all cottons not previously covered by price ceilings, as well as all wool goods.

However, certain very definite shortages did develop during the year, and are almost certain to become more acute as the war effort is further extended and speeded up. These scarcities will be most noticeable in wool textiles and all types of rayons. Production of rayon yarn fell short of demand throughout 1941, and will become accentuated by the loss of natural silk, the compulsory allocation of a reasonable poundage to South America under the Good-Neighbor policy, and the partial diversion of certain chemicals to war industries that are essential in the manufacture of rayon.

Raw wool during 1941 was fairly plentiful for apparel purposes, and prices on wool tops remained relatively steady, but speculation in wool fabrics induced rather substantial price increases during the year.

South American wools became more popular and were imported in increasing quantities. Australian wool was available in the desired quantities, but shipping facilities suffered because of enemy submarine activities.

A more troublesome situation developed in carpet wools, most of which have been coming from China. In the face of decreasing imports in this field, more and more spun rayon has been finding its way into carpet and rug manufacture.

That a tighter situation will be created in apparel wools for civilian consumption is certain because of the army expansion program, in which men from 20 to 44 have been made subject to the draft.

Outstanding Developments.

The three outstanding developments in textiles during 1941, changes that will be more potently felt during 1942, were (1) the determined campaign for simplification of lines and styles of goods; (2) the search and development of substitute (or alternate) materials to replace, at least temporarily, the more orthodox basic materials in certain textile categories, and (3) the revolutionary changes forced on the manufacture of women's hosiery by the withdrawal of Japanese silk and the expanding use of longer-wearing nylons.

Hosiery Problem.

No branch of textiles has had to meet and solve such perplexing and far-reaching production and merchandising problems as has the hosiery industry during the year just past.

The output of nylon yarn, while being increased with all possible haste, is considerably short of meeting full-fashioned hosiery requirements. When the Government 'froze' all silk stocks at the end of last July, hosiery departments in stores throughout the country were literally stampeded for silk stockings. This hectic consumer demand lasted for the better part of the month of August, which will go down in retail store history as the all-time peak period for monthly hosiery volume sales.

In the late Summer it was estimated in the wholesale market that, because of the cessation of silk shipments, there would be an approximate shortage of 9,000,000 dozens pairs of silk stockings for the Christmas season. It later developed that some discrepancy had developed with respect to 'un-opened bales' of silk in the hands of yarn throwing and hosiery manufacturing mills, and that apparently about 30,000 bales supposedly 'frozen' had found their way into manufacture. This situation was being investigated as the year came to a close, and the frozen silk discrepancy had not been clarified. But, contrary to earlier estimates, it became known early in November that there would be no appreciable shortage in silk hosiery for Christmas buying — the 'real scarcity would develop after the first of the year.'

One of the difficulties confronting hosiery producers is the fact that the finer denier, high tenacity rayon yarns, which had reached a promising state of development as a satisfactory basic yarn for good quality sheer hosiery, is being commandeered, through priority ruling, by the Government for various military uses.

Another serious problem developed when manufacturers were obliged to use combinations of fibers in their nylon hosiery output. Washing difficulties were encountered by users when mixtures involving a nylon leg with rayon welts and feet were found to dry unevenly and often with disastrous results.

Simplification.

In the matter of simplification, the Government urged the practice on manufacturers, and retailers cordially supported the move, for experience has shown that the great bulk of business in any finished goods category is usually confined to a relatively few types, styles and colors. The idea behind the move was to conserve both labor and materials.

Proponents of simplification stressed the fact that they were not advocating 'standardization.' Donald M. Nelson, executive director of the War Production Board, explained the purpose, from the Government's viewpoint, at a large trade gathering in Washington, when he said:

'There is a world of difference (between 'simplification' and 'standardization'). We do not propose to standardize styles. We do not propose to tell the American people that they must all sit in standardized chairs, wear standardized shirts, get up to the tune of standardized radios and crawl into standardized beds at the end of dull, standardized days. Simplification is much different.'

And as a specific example, he pointed out that the American people were certainly not being asked to 'bear a great load' if asked to select their winter blankets from among half a dozen sizes and colors, instead of from among thirty or forty.

In these special demands, as in the whole job of serving the country's armed services, the textile trade feels that it can justly boast of quick and competent service. The Government's buying and testing facilities have been developed to a point of great efficiency, and to handle Government bids is regarded as a definite badge of high quality manufacturing skill.

And last, but certainly not least, deliveries of various textiles to the Government are executed with dispatch and are always completed 'on time.'

Statistics.

With the exception of silk, which was fast vanishing from the textile field, all textile consumption figures for 1941 showed new all-time highs, this striking increase applying to Cottons, Wool Goods and Rayons.

Total domestic production of rayon (yarn plus staple fiber) amounted last year to 573,230,000 pounds, an increase of 22 per cent over the previous record of 471,170,000 pounds in 1940. Filament rayon yarn output was ahead by 16 per cent, while rayon staple fiber showed a 50 per cent gain.

Actual production of raw cotton totaled 10,976,000 bales, which translated into pounds aggregates 5,488,000,000. This was almost 2,000,000 bales less than 1940 and is explained by the fact that the planned acreage was appreciably less than the preceding year.

Total raw cotton consumed in 1941 established a new record, amounting to 5,207,200,000 pounds, as against 3,961,700,000 pounds in 1940, and 3,629,700,000 pounds in 1939.

While final wool consumption figures were not yet available late in January of this year, an authoritative estimate put the total at about 643,000,000 pounds, this including both apparel and carpet wools. See also CHEMISTRY.

1940: Textiles

No other major industry has more ramifications than textiles in the conversion of fibers into finished merchandise, and none other is subject to more intense competition. All this operates, of course, to the distinct advantage of the great consuming public, for monopolistic price trends are impossible, and the incessant urge for more beauty and novelty is uppermost.

Taken as a whole, the industry operated on a moderately profitable basis during 1940, and several important branches of the trade established new all-time records in production and consumption.

Consumption of Textile Materials in 1940.

While raw cotton consumption averaged about 327,000,000 pounds per month for the year, during the last four months of 1940 the average reached the high level of around 357,000,000 pounds, making the year's total 3,924,000,000 pounds.

Raw wool used during the year amounted to slightly more than 400,000,000 pounds. Beginning with August, the effect of defense requirements became manifest, and for the period October through December, apparel wool consumption reached the highest levels since 1918.

A total of 41,611,311 pounds of raw silk was consumed (mostly in hosiery) during the year — this indicating a drop of 18.4 per cent from the 1939 total. These figures indicate very plainly that the competitive position of silk is becoming increasingly weaker.

Rayon yarn consumption in 1940 set a new all-time high record, with a total of 390,000,000 pounds — exceeding the 1939 total by 8 per cent. This covers all types of rayon. The most spectacular gain was registered by spun rayon, with an increase over 1939 of 55 per cent.

Textiles in the National Defense Program.

High lights in the year's developments were: the very definite stimulus provided by the large requirements of the National Defense Program, the spectacular and successful introduction of nylon hosiery to the consumer, and the rare opportunity afforded American designers and fashion experts to take over the style leadership that was the former undisputed possession of Paris, France.

It is not to be assumed that the improvement recorded in both the cotton textile and wool textile fields was due solely to this vastly increased Government business (for all the armed services), because even without this factor these branches of the trade would have registered gains over 1939. But the business placed by the Army and Navy was considerable and figured in the net results.

One point that has long been definitely established within the industry, but is apparently little understood by the press and public is, that both the Army and Navy make the most rigid demands in their textile specifications. Both services have trained textile technicians and modern laboratories for the complete testing of all goods purchased.

Officers in charge state that the manufacturers who work on these specialized contracts welcome the tests to which their goods are subjected. The mere fact that a textile mill has successfully competed on invitations from either branch of the armed services is in itself definite assurance of the dependable quality of its products.

So far as industrial mobilization is concerned, the textile industry has a distinct advantage in the present defense plans, because its problems remain basically unchanged, and in this field past experience is of immense value. In the last war the lack of understanding of what was wanted and its immediate and violent need was filled with destructive elements to both the textile manufacturer and the Government.

As standards have not been hurriedly or carelessly adopted, fabrics purchased for our military requirements are superior to those used in any other country in the world. In marked contrast to the situation obtaining in the last war, the Army and Navy very definitely know what they want, and furthermore, have educated the textile industries to a full knowledge of their needs.

During a radio preparedness forum, broadcast late last year, Dr. C. T. Murchison, president of the Cotton-Textile Institute, speaking for his own as well as the textile industry generally, said in part:

'Our industry is prepared to provide new cloth constructions, new weave patterns, new designs, new surface finishes and unending originality in the adaptation of goods to new and perhaps unheard of purposes. Present indications are that the cotton requirements for the Army and Navy during the next year alone will approximate no less than 900,000,000 square yards. The cotton textile industry can take this production in its stride, since it represents less than 10 per cent of our normal annual output. And the other branches of the textile industry are equally well equipped to handle the emergency task confronting them.'

The industry has formed group committees to cooperate more effectively with the National Defense Program, and is giving priority to Government needs.

Nylon Hosiery.

No single development in textiles during the past fifty years has received such inspired publicity and such widespread public interest as the final introduction, on May 15, 1940, of the remarkable new man-made, protein-like, chemical product — nylon — in women's full-fashioned hosiery.

Its success was instantaneous and the volume of business done during the first few weeks (and even now) was restricted only by the limited available quantities of the yarn itself. At present capacity levels the output of nylon can only meet about 10 per cent of the total required for the particular type of hosiery mentioned, and even with another nylon plant due to start production in the early spring of 1941, the supply is far short of the demand.

While it may never entirely displace silk in hosiery, it already occupies the upper price brackets, and its superior qualities in the matter of longer wearability are established beyond all doubt. So popular had it become in the fall of 1940 that retail buyers presented something of a wild scramble in their efforts to buy enough goods to meet the Christmas demand.

New Finishes.

Mention was made in the 1939 report on textiles, of the revolutionary and far-reaching gains registered in the field of textile chemistry. This had reference not only to the constantly improving qualities of various rayons and other new chemical fibers, but to the extraordinary effects achieved on all fabrics by the use of new chemical agents in the dyeing and finishing industry. Both beauty and durability are heightened by these new products of the laboratory, and progress during 1940 was quite as spectacular as in the preceding year.

Rapid and successful developments in every conceivable branch of sportswear have given impetus to experiments with new chemical finishes. Many cottons, for example, which were originally confined to the most humble uses, have undergone a complete change of face and emerged as shining examples of laboratory skill.

New types of colors, faster dyes, treatments for greater crease-resistance, shrinkage control, permanent crispness and a finish which controls or 'stabilizes' the original finish of the cloth, are but a few of the developments that point the way to increased sales and greater consumer satisfaction.

American Fashions.

For many years Americans have bowed to the leadership of Paris — in the broad field of creative design and fashion origination, but now that Paris is, at least for some time to come, in eclipse, there is a growing feeling that American designers of novelty fabrics, print patterns, and general fashion interpretations have the golden opportunity for which they have long been waiting.

See also CHEMISTRY.

1939: Textiles

In marked contrast to the preceding year, the textile industry as a whole operated on a profitable basis during 1939, and the recovery trend that made this possible was in evidence and gaining steady momentum, long before the outbreak of war in Europe.

As early as June, it was expected that textile consumption for the year would show an increase of from 15 to 20 per cent above 1938 — and this estimate was made on the assumption that there would be a moderate decrease in activity during the last half of the year. What happened after September 1 naturally lifted these percentages appreciably, but all this does suggest that there has been, or is now developing, a boom in textiles. There is a significant note of caution in all textile operations, born of fairly recent set-backs, disappointments and downright disaster — almost always the aftermath of production excesses during what had appeared like a bona fide industrial upturn.

Research Progress.

There was vastly more laboratory and field research, with resultant gains in manufacturing technique and fabric quality and durability. Higher speed textile machinery was developed, with greater control in all manufacturing procedures, including spinning, throwing, weaving, dyeing and finishing. More stress was laid on effective styling and merchandising, with more widespread informative identification and labeling of all textile products.

The year was made notable by the development of dyes of increased color fastness and the introduction of new and more effective 'permanent finishes.' The 'battle of the fibers' — cotton, wool, silk and rayon — was intensified by the tremendous quality gains achieved in the various rayons, and by the advent of wholly new synthetic fibers.

The industry became more adjusted to the new Wage-Hour Law, and recommendations for minimum rates by specially appointed groups in various branches of the industry were accepted and made legally effective by the Government. Industrial gains in the South continued apace during 1939 — this being particularly marked in the knitting industry, with emphasis here on hosiery manufacture.

The popularity of sportswear increased at an accelerated rate in both men's and women's wear, and this stimulated the development of numerous fabrics especially designed to meet the more exacting requirements of rough outdoor usage.

An example of ingenious progress in cloth fabrication came to light in the rescue work and subsequent salvaging operations involved in the sinking of the submarine Squalus, off the coast of Portsmouth, N. H. in May. Navy divers were able to work in the severe cold water at a depth of 240 feet, only by the use of electrically heated diving suits, made possible through a newly invented non-kinkable wire that is woven into the cloth.

During the last four months of the year considerable thought and effort were focused on the building up of our export trade with South America, but textile men soon realized that, because of exchange restrictions, possibilities in this direction are limited. It was expected, however, that vastly more textile machinery and equipment of American make would find their way into Latin-American industrial centers.

Textile Chemistry.

It was in the field of textile chemistry that the most revolutionary and far-reaching gains were registered in 1939. These advances have almost completely changed the future textile picture.

Ten years ago silk dominated the dress fabric, underwear and hosiery fields. At the end of 1939 various types of rayon had, from a volume standpoint, all but supplanted silk in the first two fields, and entirely new synthetic fibers (non-cellulose) were threatening its last stronghold — the hosiery field.

In addition to these upsets, more and more rayon was being used by cotton goods manufacturers, and enormous gains were registered in the use of spun rayon in innumerable cotton blends. Spun rayon is a variant of the ordinary filament rayon. It lends itself to all sorts of mixtures and novelty effects and can, when skillfully handled, simulate various natural fabrics.

The woolen and worsted industry had not taken to spun rayon as a companion yarn to pure wool in men's wear fabrics with anything like the enthusiasm and success that had attended its employment in women's wear cloths. But the tight raw wool situation, resulting from the shutting off of raw wool imports from Australia and other foreign countries, has created a raw material situation that has compelled woolen goods manufacturers to look with increasing interest at the possibilities of wool and spun rayon blended fabrics. It was freely predicted toward the end of the year, that future seasons would find expanding quantities of rayon in men's suitings, and that this change would meet with increasing acceptance regardless of raw material dislocations.

While some relief in the matter of wool imports was promised, both the wool textile and the carpet and rug industries were showing more interest in potential substitutes. Other conspicuous rayon developments included a new Tenasco-type viscose rayon yarn of extraordinary strength; newer versions of the popular thick-and-thin yarn types; abraded yarns (acetate rayon), and wool-like fibers made from milk casein.

Nylon, Vinyon, Fiberglas.

One of the most spectacular of the new basic fibers is the du Pont Company's nylon. This newcomer was first made known late in 1938, but widespread and successful hosiery tests were conducted in 1939, and commercial production, at du Pont's new Delaware plant, will be gradually stepped up in 1940. This yarn is a formidable threat to silk in the manufacture of hosiery.

Another interesting fiber of somewhat similar properties made its advent under the name of Vinyon. It is technically described as 'a vinyl resin — a co-polymer of vinyl chloride and vinyl acetate.' As in the case of nylon, the stretching process employed in its manufacture gives the yarn its high tensile strength and its true elasticity. This is another threat to silk in hosiery, but also as in the case of nylon, Vinyon will lend itself to many other textile products, particularly in 'shape-retaining' fabrics. Vinyl resin powder is a development of Carbide and Carbon Chemicals Corporation, but under contractual arrangements the yarn will be manufactured and distributed by the American Viscose Corporation.

Fiberglas, or yarns spun from molten glass, did not make its first appearance in 1939. However, manufacturing refinements that have made it a valuable basis for many fabrics not at first even considered, were 1939 developments. When first introduced Fiberglas was hailed as a valuable yarn for mechanical and insulating fabrics, etc., but it is now found in a wide variety of very beautiful decorative fabrics.

Textile Finish.

Some time ago a leading laboratory technician declared that 'the future of textiles is in the finish.' What he meant was that, so far as fabrics are concerned, revolutionary effects in beauty and durability would be made possible through the application of newly developed chemical agents. His prophecy has come true, and 1939 witnessed the advent or further development of several outstanding 'permanent finishes' providing waterproof, stainproof, mothproof, and fireproof characteristics, and a synthetic resin treatment that is effectively crease-resistant. All these chemical developments are being constantly and ingeniously improved. See also CHEMISTRY.