1939: Textiles

In marked contrast to the preceding year, the textile industry as a whole operated on a profitable basis during 1939, and the recovery trend that made this possible was in evidence and gaining steady momentum, long before the outbreak of war in Europe.

As early as June, it was expected that textile consumption for the year would show an increase of from 15 to 20 per cent above 1938 — and this estimate was made on the assumption that there would be a moderate decrease in activity during the last half of the year. What happened after September 1 naturally lifted these percentages appreciably, but all this does suggest that there has been, or is now developing, a boom in textiles. There is a significant note of caution in all textile operations, born of fairly recent set-backs, disappointments and downright disaster — almost always the aftermath of production excesses during what had appeared like a bona fide industrial upturn.

Research Progress.

There was vastly more laboratory and field research, with resultant gains in manufacturing technique and fabric quality and durability. Higher speed textile machinery was developed, with greater control in all manufacturing procedures, including spinning, throwing, weaving, dyeing and finishing. More stress was laid on effective styling and merchandising, with more widespread informative identification and labeling of all textile products.

The year was made notable by the development of dyes of increased color fastness and the introduction of new and more effective 'permanent finishes.' The 'battle of the fibers' — cotton, wool, silk and rayon — was intensified by the tremendous quality gains achieved in the various rayons, and by the advent of wholly new synthetic fibers.

The industry became more adjusted to the new Wage-Hour Law, and recommendations for minimum rates by specially appointed groups in various branches of the industry were accepted and made legally effective by the Government. Industrial gains in the South continued apace during 1939 — this being particularly marked in the knitting industry, with emphasis here on hosiery manufacture.

The popularity of sportswear increased at an accelerated rate in both men's and women's wear, and this stimulated the development of numerous fabrics especially designed to meet the more exacting requirements of rough outdoor usage.

An example of ingenious progress in cloth fabrication came to light in the rescue work and subsequent salvaging operations involved in the sinking of the submarine Squalus, off the coast of Portsmouth, N. H. in May. Navy divers were able to work in the severe cold water at a depth of 240 feet, only by the use of electrically heated diving suits, made possible through a newly invented non-kinkable wire that is woven into the cloth.

During the last four months of the year considerable thought and effort were focused on the building up of our export trade with South America, but textile men soon realized that, because of exchange restrictions, possibilities in this direction are limited. It was expected, however, that vastly more textile machinery and equipment of American make would find their way into Latin-American industrial centers.

Textile Chemistry.

It was in the field of textile chemistry that the most revolutionary and far-reaching gains were registered in 1939. These advances have almost completely changed the future textile picture.

Ten years ago silk dominated the dress fabric, underwear and hosiery fields. At the end of 1939 various types of rayon had, from a volume standpoint, all but supplanted silk in the first two fields, and entirely new synthetic fibers (non-cellulose) were threatening its last stronghold — the hosiery field.

In addition to these upsets, more and more rayon was being used by cotton goods manufacturers, and enormous gains were registered in the use of spun rayon in innumerable cotton blends. Spun rayon is a variant of the ordinary filament rayon. It lends itself to all sorts of mixtures and novelty effects and can, when skillfully handled, simulate various natural fabrics.

The woolen and worsted industry had not taken to spun rayon as a companion yarn to pure wool in men's wear fabrics with anything like the enthusiasm and success that had attended its employment in women's wear cloths. But the tight raw wool situation, resulting from the shutting off of raw wool imports from Australia and other foreign countries, has created a raw material situation that has compelled woolen goods manufacturers to look with increasing interest at the possibilities of wool and spun rayon blended fabrics. It was freely predicted toward the end of the year, that future seasons would find expanding quantities of rayon in men's suitings, and that this change would meet with increasing acceptance regardless of raw material dislocations.

While some relief in the matter of wool imports was promised, both the wool textile and the carpet and rug industries were showing more interest in potential substitutes. Other conspicuous rayon developments included a new Tenasco-type viscose rayon yarn of extraordinary strength; newer versions of the popular thick-and-thin yarn types; abraded yarns (acetate rayon), and wool-like fibers made from milk casein.

Nylon, Vinyon, Fiberglas.

One of the most spectacular of the new basic fibers is the du Pont Company's nylon. This newcomer was first made known late in 1938, but widespread and successful hosiery tests were conducted in 1939, and commercial production, at du Pont's new Delaware plant, will be gradually stepped up in 1940. This yarn is a formidable threat to silk in the manufacture of hosiery.

Another interesting fiber of somewhat similar properties made its advent under the name of Vinyon. It is technically described as 'a vinyl resin — a co-polymer of vinyl chloride and vinyl acetate.' As in the case of nylon, the stretching process employed in its manufacture gives the yarn its high tensile strength and its true elasticity. This is another threat to silk in hosiery, but also as in the case of nylon, Vinyon will lend itself to many other textile products, particularly in 'shape-retaining' fabrics. Vinyl resin powder is a development of Carbide and Carbon Chemicals Corporation, but under contractual arrangements the yarn will be manufactured and distributed by the American Viscose Corporation.

Fiberglas, or yarns spun from molten glass, did not make its first appearance in 1939. However, manufacturing refinements that have made it a valuable basis for many fabrics not at first even considered, were 1939 developments. When first introduced Fiberglas was hailed as a valuable yarn for mechanical and insulating fabrics, etc., but it is now found in a wide variety of very beautiful decorative fabrics.

Textile Finish.

Some time ago a leading laboratory technician declared that 'the future of textiles is in the finish.' What he meant was that, so far as fabrics are concerned, revolutionary effects in beauty and durability would be made possible through the application of newly developed chemical agents. His prophecy has come true, and 1939 witnessed the advent or further development of several outstanding 'permanent finishes' providing waterproof, stainproof, mothproof, and fireproof characteristics, and a synthetic resin treatment that is effectively crease-resistant. All these chemical developments are being constantly and ingeniously improved. See also CHEMISTRY.