1941: Textiles

Because of steadily increasing Government requirements and the rapid resultant rise on consumer purchasing power, all types of textiles established new high production and consumption records during 1941.

So pronounced was this accelerated upward swing that wholesale operations in cottons, wool goods and rayons shifted, for the first time in more than two decades, from a buyers' to a 'sellers' market,' and prices advanced so rapidly that the price ceilings imposed by the Office of Price Administration earlier in the year had been extended to embrace a major portion of all textile fabrics by the latter part of December.

American textile productive capacity has long been far in excess of normal peace-time requirements. Even with the new and mounting demands from the nation's armed services, it seemed to many market observers that reported shortages were greatly exaggerated, while in one or two instances they were wholly artificial. Pressing their advantage in these alleged scarcities, speculators in unfinished fabrics held out for higher and still higher prices, until the Government price control authorities felt obliged to impose a 'freezing' order covering all cottons not previously covered by price ceilings, as well as all wool goods.

However, certain very definite shortages did develop during the year, and are almost certain to become more acute as the war effort is further extended and speeded up. These scarcities will be most noticeable in wool textiles and all types of rayons. Production of rayon yarn fell short of demand throughout 1941, and will become accentuated by the loss of natural silk, the compulsory allocation of a reasonable poundage to South America under the Good-Neighbor policy, and the partial diversion of certain chemicals to war industries that are essential in the manufacture of rayon.

Raw wool during 1941 was fairly plentiful for apparel purposes, and prices on wool tops remained relatively steady, but speculation in wool fabrics induced rather substantial price increases during the year.

South American wools became more popular and were imported in increasing quantities. Australian wool was available in the desired quantities, but shipping facilities suffered because of enemy submarine activities.

A more troublesome situation developed in carpet wools, most of which have been coming from China. In the face of decreasing imports in this field, more and more spun rayon has been finding its way into carpet and rug manufacture.

That a tighter situation will be created in apparel wools for civilian consumption is certain because of the army expansion program, in which men from 20 to 44 have been made subject to the draft.

Outstanding Developments.

The three outstanding developments in textiles during 1941, changes that will be more potently felt during 1942, were (1) the determined campaign for simplification of lines and styles of goods; (2) the search and development of substitute (or alternate) materials to replace, at least temporarily, the more orthodox basic materials in certain textile categories, and (3) the revolutionary changes forced on the manufacture of women's hosiery by the withdrawal of Japanese silk and the expanding use of longer-wearing nylons.

Hosiery Problem.

No branch of textiles has had to meet and solve such perplexing and far-reaching production and merchandising problems as has the hosiery industry during the year just past.

The output of nylon yarn, while being increased with all possible haste, is considerably short of meeting full-fashioned hosiery requirements. When the Government 'froze' all silk stocks at the end of last July, hosiery departments in stores throughout the country were literally stampeded for silk stockings. This hectic consumer demand lasted for the better part of the month of August, which will go down in retail store history as the all-time peak period for monthly hosiery volume sales.

In the late Summer it was estimated in the wholesale market that, because of the cessation of silk shipments, there would be an approximate shortage of 9,000,000 dozens pairs of silk stockings for the Christmas season. It later developed that some discrepancy had developed with respect to 'un-opened bales' of silk in the hands of yarn throwing and hosiery manufacturing mills, and that apparently about 30,000 bales supposedly 'frozen' had found their way into manufacture. This situation was being investigated as the year came to a close, and the frozen silk discrepancy had not been clarified. But, contrary to earlier estimates, it became known early in November that there would be no appreciable shortage in silk hosiery for Christmas buying — the 'real scarcity would develop after the first of the year.'

One of the difficulties confronting hosiery producers is the fact that the finer denier, high tenacity rayon yarns, which had reached a promising state of development as a satisfactory basic yarn for good quality sheer hosiery, is being commandeered, through priority ruling, by the Government for various military uses.

Another serious problem developed when manufacturers were obliged to use combinations of fibers in their nylon hosiery output. Washing difficulties were encountered by users when mixtures involving a nylon leg with rayon welts and feet were found to dry unevenly and often with disastrous results.

Simplification.

In the matter of simplification, the Government urged the practice on manufacturers, and retailers cordially supported the move, for experience has shown that the great bulk of business in any finished goods category is usually confined to a relatively few types, styles and colors. The idea behind the move was to conserve both labor and materials.

Proponents of simplification stressed the fact that they were not advocating 'standardization.' Donald M. Nelson, executive director of the War Production Board, explained the purpose, from the Government's viewpoint, at a large trade gathering in Washington, when he said:

'There is a world of difference (between 'simplification' and 'standardization'). We do not propose to standardize styles. We do not propose to tell the American people that they must all sit in standardized chairs, wear standardized shirts, get up to the tune of standardized radios and crawl into standardized beds at the end of dull, standardized days. Simplification is much different.'

And as a specific example, he pointed out that the American people were certainly not being asked to 'bear a great load' if asked to select their winter blankets from among half a dozen sizes and colors, instead of from among thirty or forty.

In these special demands, as in the whole job of serving the country's armed services, the textile trade feels that it can justly boast of quick and competent service. The Government's buying and testing facilities have been developed to a point of great efficiency, and to handle Government bids is regarded as a definite badge of high quality manufacturing skill.

And last, but certainly not least, deliveries of various textiles to the Government are executed with dispatch and are always completed 'on time.'

Statistics.

With the exception of silk, which was fast vanishing from the textile field, all textile consumption figures for 1941 showed new all-time highs, this striking increase applying to Cottons, Wool Goods and Rayons.

Total domestic production of rayon (yarn plus staple fiber) amounted last year to 573,230,000 pounds, an increase of 22 per cent over the previous record of 471,170,000 pounds in 1940. Filament rayon yarn output was ahead by 16 per cent, while rayon staple fiber showed a 50 per cent gain.

Actual production of raw cotton totaled 10,976,000 bales, which translated into pounds aggregates 5,488,000,000. This was almost 2,000,000 bales less than 1940 and is explained by the fact that the planned acreage was appreciably less than the preceding year.

Total raw cotton consumed in 1941 established a new record, amounting to 5,207,200,000 pounds, as against 3,961,700,000 pounds in 1940, and 3,629,700,000 pounds in 1939.

While final wool consumption figures were not yet available late in January of this year, an authoritative estimate put the total at about 643,000,000 pounds, this including both apparel and carpet wools. See also CHEMISTRY.