1942: Textiles

Virtually all the problems that beset the various categories of textiles during 1942 stemmed from the war effort, and while none of these was as acute as those in the durable or hard goods lines, they were serious enough to slow up both production and distribution in some branches of the industry.

Cotton.

In point of actual yardage, cottons comprise the major portion of American textile output and consumption. Production of raw cotton during 1942 established a new all-time high — amounting to nearly 13,000,000 bales, an increase over 1941 of about 1,000,000 bales. From 75 per cent to 80 per cent of this cotton was handled under Government priority control, and about 50 per cent of it went directly into military channels.

Total production of cotton cloth reached another record figure, totaling approximately 12,000,000,000 square yards, an increase of around 17 per cent over 1941.

While in normal times over-production is the major problem in cottons, the chief concern for the duration of the war will be to get an adequate share of the total output to take care of legitimate civilian requirements.

Wool.

Never before has the inventory stock pile of raw wool been as large as it was at the close of 1942. Although most of this was American owned, a fairly large portion (imported from Australasia) was under the joint control of the American and British Governments. This enormous quantity in reserve had been accumulated as a precautionary measure — in the possible (but not probable) event that the import situation might become more involved.

But as a further safeguard on raw wool reserves, the Government bought the entire Uruguayan wool clip, and large purchases were made in other South American countries. Carpet wools are becoming very scarce, the bulk of this class of wools coming from China. Consumption of wool by the fabric manufacturing trades was about 40 per cent above a normal year, this because of military uniform requirements.

Because of basic raw wool diversion to war uses, civilian men's and boys' clothing manufacturers were seriously handicapped, and production in this field slumped appreciably. Employment diversion to the military services and defense plants was also a factor, as in other branches of civilian industry.

Government restrictions covering various classes and types of clothing had its effect in materially curbing civilian output and this trend is apt to become more pronounced as the war progresses.

Advance of Rayon.

Rayon yarns and fabrics became more important than ever last year, both production and consumption achieving new values in both civilian and military fields.

Because of the tighter wool situation and the gradual withdrawal of both silk and nylon in the hosiery trades, rayon demand far exceeded available stocks. The high tenacity yarns, which will prove of increasing interest in all sorts of civilian wear after the war, were commandeered by the Government for various war uses.

These special yarns, it was known in hosiery manufacturing circles, would make rayon hosiery vastly more acceptable to the consuming public if they were available for use in hosiery manufacture, but the hosiery industry, for the duration at least, will have to make the most of what the rayon yarn manufacturers are at liberty to furnish them.

One of the most far-reaching results of war shortages in certain types of natural textile fibers will be the 'substitute' or 'alternate' materials that are being (and will continue to be) synthetically produced. Chemistry has already had a revolutionary effect on textiles, and leading textile authorities believe that more startling surprises are in store for the near and extending future.

Nylon.

Few people outside the textile markets, for example, realize the wide and effective uses that will eventually be made of nylon. This new chemical yarn will find its way, in due course, in almost every textile category, according to experienced observers in various branches of the industry. And so certain are hosiery manufacturers of the ultimate (after-the-war) dominance of nylon in their field, that they are convinced silk will never again loom as a serious competitor.

Apparel.

The dress manufacturing industry suffered less than any other branch of textiles through much of 1942, but during the last three or four months of the year was definitely handicapped by increasing material shortage, and a tightening of the labor market.

This latter difficulty, as a matter of fact, is making itself more acutely felt in every branch of the textile industry, just as it is in most other business fields — because of the continuing diversion of civilian workers into either the armed forces or plants manufacturing the various sinews of war.

In the apparel fields, both men's and women's, efforts were made to further curtail what some government officials referred to as 'frills,' and it was even suggested that an effort be made to 'de-glamorize' women's clothes for the remainder of the war.

It was not thought, in well informed quarters of the women's apparel market, that the proposal would get very far, for it would be vigorously opposed by both the producing trades and the consuming public, on the plausible grounds that it would not only fail to accomplish its assumed purpose (to aid the war effort) but would have a generally negative influence on morale.

A report on textiles for 1942 would be incomplete without brief reference to the Government's 'Inventory Limitation' Order, issued through the War Production Board, and covering both manufacturers and retailers. The real effect of this new control measure will not be felt until the spring of 1943 when inventories must be in line with the prescribed formula.

During the last half of 1942 there were persistent reports that both producers and retailers (at least a large number in each category) had accumulated vast inventories, even renting, in some instances, extra warehouse space to take care of these abnormal reserves. Textiles play an important part in these reserves, and the new regulation was aimed at relieving small retailers who had presumably been 'squeezed' out, particularly in certain areas.