1942: Women's Fashions

Effect of the War.

In the year 1942, global war was the gruesome force affecting every phase of life, private, social and business. In the fashion industry, designers were put to the test of creating styles with less materials than they were accustomed to use. Limited by WPB (War Production Board) regulations L85, L90, L116, the vital essence of the fashion business — changing styles — was no longer permissible. The prevention of style obsolescence of clothes already in wardrobes was a necessity. 'Buy for actual needs' was the slogan.

Fabrics for fashion merchandise experienced limitations of weave and type and certain colors, especially in the fall and winter seasons. Pure virgin wool was still noted on garment tags, but it was evident that mills were using more and more mixtures of new wool with rayon, cotton, reused and reprocessed wool, and aralac. This latter is a protein fibre resembling wool — a byproduct of milk. Two leading woolens for coats were fleece and a soft, smooth monotone. Suit fabrics were men's wear striped flannels, small patterned effects, checks and plaids. Rayons stressed few novelties — classic types were featured for a wartime economy. Heavier rayons in gabardine and twill weaves, to replace scarce woolens, were notable; also jerseys, velvets, velveteens, corduroys and staple cottons.

Pure silks and nylon were unavailable except in few prewar stocks. Nylon fleece was introduced (a waste product of the nylon used for war materials). This is warm, long wearing, mothproof, water-repellant, and held promise for a bright postwar future.

Attractive colors were highlighted, although limited in variations of shades because of government conservation of dyes. In fact, color in clothes was stressed as an antidote for a wartime world, a fillip for spirits and morale. In the spring, perennial navy, black, gray and beige were punctuated more than usual with lively colors as red, green and purple. These were used also in entire costumes from hat to shoes, but the smarter effect was the bright color as accent, or if used for the garment subdued by accessories in dark shades.

The story of silhouettes in 1942 was simplification of line. Skirt widths, jacket lengths, linings, pockets, cuffs, lapels, belts and the use of rubber were restricted. The latter was felt especially in the making of foundation garments. And so manufacturers produced apparel in accordance. Shoulders were decidedly modified but retained a squared effect. The body line was characterized by supple molded details which were essentially feminine but not fussy. Skirt widths were narrower but not uncomfortably or unbecomingly tight. Lengths in all apparel were the required 16 or 17 inches from the ground.

Suits.

Suits were again hailed as a 'must for spring' and in this war year loomed even more important as the all-important costume in the wardrobe the year-round. Attractively designed uniforms of the auxiliary services of the fighting forces and those of the civilian volunteer organizations were in good part inspirational for this greater popularity for suits. Jacket and skirt outfits even appeared at 'don't dress' dinner dates. And because fabrics were simple in weave and surface interest, embroidered and other trimming details were prevalent, lending a gay, dressy note to an otherwise simple costume. Braid, sequins, fringe, fur were noted, especially in the fall.

Dresses.

Although suits were more popular than ever, the dress as such was not neglected. Attractive prints for undercoat wear emerged for spring through summer wear. Crepes, rayon jerseys, failles and bengalines were highlighted spring dress fabrics followed by sheerer, lighter weight rayons and cottons for summer with shantung and linen-like weaves prevalent. Linen itself was very scarce, since 80 per cent of this flax was imported from Russia. Dress styling had distinctive front details, as draping for a swathed hipline, draped bodices for a soft effect. Necklines were flattering — fewer collarless types. New were soft bows tying high and a classic was the Barrymore shirt collar descending to a low V. To overcome the increasing shortages of such items as slide fasteners for closings, drawstrings appeared at waistlines, a side drape over a generous front lap tied at the side. Decorative buttons in still available plastics, other novelties or jeweled styles were favored.

Fall again saw no definite change in dress silhouette but there were some new notes as pegtops and envelope drapes which gave a feminine touch; also modified dirndl effects in skirt fronts gave the impression of fullness but in no way exceeded the required width. In tailored and sports dresses, classic styles and a model inspired by the 'trench coat' were featured. In colors, it was black as usual augmented by lively colors with purples and winter white among the popular novelties. The demand for formal evening attire fell off considerably. While the long evening dress was not out of the picture, the rule was short dinner dresses, and these depended on the previously mentioned glitter embroideries for a formal note. Especially interesting were warm-fabric evening dresses and be-jeweled sweaters worn when indoor thermometers registered many degrees under pre-war times.

Coats.

In coats, Chesterfields in both fitted and casual box types were outstanding. Velvet collars and bandings were their important trimmings. The untrimmed cloth coat appeared to exceed the fur trimmed type. In the latter, the tuxedo fur front was a first fashion. 'Teen age girls favored the 'teddy bear' sports coat in a fabric-fur, usually trimmed with contrasting colorful fabric for its little collar and front closing. Fur coats had no restrictions in styling and there was continued popularity for Persians, beaver, mink and muskrats, the latter received interesting new treatments dyed and manipulated to look like mink or sable.

Sportswear.

Sportswear took on new meaning in 1942. Associated with outdoor activity, in this war year, it became even more utilitarian, doubling for work and play. Sales of slacks increased tremendously, culottes had new appeal; sweaters, blouses, jackets and skirts were in great demand. Specially designed work clothes were worn by women on defense jobs.

Accessories.

Accessories were very important! In these, too, priorities of materials necessitated innovations. Metal-less jewelry found new use for wood, ceramics, lucite, glass. Sterling silver was featured, but later restricted. Leather shortages affected glove, handbag and shoe styling. Metal frames and slide fasteners disappeared. Shoulder strap handbags were adopted especially by women in uniform. Hosiery in rayon, lisle and novelty cottons appeared. During the summer barelegs became an increasing vogue, and cosmetic liquid stockings were used to give the illusion of silk or nylon. Women went hatless, but this was a whim of fashion, not necessity. Bows instead were worn by young and old alike. The advent of fall brought renewed interest in millinery. Larger hats, taller, berets and cloche bonnets looked newer than tiny pompadour styles which had enjoyed an extended vogue.

And so 1942 witnessed a year of law-abiding fashions keyed to limitations of materials and styling to price ceilings. Grim days still loomed ahead. Rationing of consumer goods had started, winning the war meant continued and greater sacrifices, and the Fashion World was ready.