Fashion by some might have been regarded as frivolous in the grave times of 1941, which before its close saw a large part of the world engulfed in war. Yet fashion is important even in such times for it helps the morale of the home folk; what is more stimulating than something new to wear! Fashion also is important in the domestic economy. It is more than a word, it is an industry — the second largest in the United States.
As recorded in 1940, the rapidly diminishing influence of Paris as the world's fashion center brought greater prestige to the United States as a fashion leader, with New York the logical successor to Paris. It got off to a good start when in January 1941, The Fashion Group and civic leaders sponsored an all-American fashion pageant 'New York Fashion Futures.' This drew an audience engaged in 'the fashion business' from all over the country, and filled to overflowing the grand ballroom of the Hotel Astor on two consecutive nights, Jan. 13 and 14. The press widely acclaimed the pageant as an epoch in fashion history.
There was another innovation in 1941, unique because it was conceived by the labor union of the dress industry. The manufacturers saw its possibilities, and started a million dollar advertising campaign which was still another boost to New York's ascendancy as the world's Fashion Center. Each garment made in the city was labeled 'New York Creation,' and judging from styles in evidence in 1941, it was a worthy successor to Paris labels.
However, government priorities on materials handicapped the fashion industry to some extent. Silk was an outstanding instance. Stocks of this commodity were requisitioned by the government for powder bags, parachutes, etc., and the importation of silk had been cut off completely due to the diplomatic strain between the United States and Japan.
Hosiery mills were the principal sufferers. Summer and early fall found the consuming public rushing to stocking counters. This depleted retail stocks rapidly and strained manufacturers' supplies. Nylon had not reached full production. Mills started experiments with substitute yarns and newest were latex and vinyon. However, the full loss of silk hosiery to the consumer was not expected until the spring of 1942. Despite the handicap of government priorities, fashion, spurred to launch new creative ideas, flourished.
In fashions as such, the silhouette, generally, did not differ too greatly from that of 1940. It advocated a more slender line, much less width for the shoulders. Draperies on slim skirts were reminiscent of silhouettes noted in 1914 during the first World War. Was this a coincidence or a proof of the logical cycle of fashion's trends?
The most popular dress silhouette for spring 1941 was the 'middy,' featuring a long torso blouse attached to or worn over the skirt. Featured in many variations, diversity of fabrics and price brackets, its popularity continued through to the fall. The 'dandy' silhouette for suits and coats had a Regency flavor, and a significant detail was a lingerie jabot or frill. Plaid suits stressing definite patterns and colors were a strong tailored and sports vogue. Plunging necklines, new daringly cut V's, were an outstanding style trend. Everyone wore them in dresses or blouses for sports or evening.
Millinery.
Pretty was the by-word for millinery. The calot, that little skull cap which, as a sports cap or 'beanie,' started on the road to popular acceptance some seasons ago, had seemingly reached out for the stars. In 1941, it also appeared in glamorous fabrics, bedecked with flowers, jewels, veils. Turbans were another 1941 favorite. Some looked like scarfs, in fact were scarfs, but a mere twist about the head and it was a turban, depending on fabric for its degree of formality. The cloche, another first World War favorite, was reintroduced.
What with hats favoring off-the-face lines, and in the fall adding snoods or draped scarfs completely covering the back of the head, the pompadour continued as a favorite hairdo. Bangs appeared; also a new gamine cut, a short hairdress of soft curls younger and more casual than the pompadour.
Accessories, Shoes, and Color.
Accessories were outstandingly important in 1941. The newest trend in these was the monotone effect. the matching of all accessories to the costume shade. First introduced in the spring, it was more readily accepted in the fall. Knitteds became quite a vogue, especially little madcaps with ubiquitous tassels. Nearly everybody wore them.
American shoe designers, recognized as leaders in the production of ready-to-wear styles in 1941, displayed greater ingenuity than ever. Predominant were soft, comfortable types. American women have taken 'play shoes' to heart, and town shoes were almost as comfortable and casual. Very interesting were shoes designed exactly like a baby's. Lightweight shoes, almost as light as a glove, weighing hardly more than six ounces gave the extreme in comfort as well as style. Shoes took to color! Spring and summer 1941 saw plenty of red even in town.
Talking about color, violets for spring never bloomed more profusely than in 1941. First introduced at 'New York Fashion Futures' early in January, the violine shades from deep purple to soft lilac tones reached a new high in popularity in accessories as well as apparel.
Summer 1941 styles stressed tubbable, packable fashions. A fabric favorite was shantung, a weave featured in silks, rayons and cottons. While white, pastels and prints dominated the summer scene, some dark tones and black gained style acceptance. In shantung particularly, a dark green was highlighted. Colored stockings were a novelty in red, green, purple, smartly worn with all-white costumes, the color picked up in jewelry, glove, hat, etc.
Fall Tendencies.
Fall 1941 brought further evidence of the slimmer silhouette. Peplums, tunics and tiers often broke the slender line. New were back-dipping hemlines, forerunner of longer skirts for 1942. In coats, especially furs, wider armholes, some dolmans, a loosely fitted body line, little collars and sleeves with wide turn back cuffs stamped styles of 1941 vintage.
There was stress on color. Black, still first, had fallen to a lower percentage. Brown to beige tones were much talked of, after some years of style doldrums. In step with this trend, frocks appeared in off-white tones, as 'white oak,' frankly white woolens for under-coat wear and white millinery. It looked like a white winter in fashions. Brilliant was another term for 1941 fashions. Dresses fairly scintillated with jet accents for daytime as well as formal wear. Longer gloves complemented the newly important dress-up daytime clothes. Costume jewelry was opulent.
The year 1941 was a truly luxury fashion year, despite the outbreak of war. The situation becomes more difficult as defense requirements increase ... a challenge! But just as the fashion industry rose to new heights in 1941, so in 1942 we look to the fashion creators to conceive new ideas, using limited materials available.
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