1938: Men's Apparel Industry

Styles in Men's Apparel.

The men's apparel industry, like most others, stepped off to a poor start in 1938. The first quarter left plenty of room for improvement; but, unlike some of the other major industries, that improvement failed to materialize to any marked degree as the year progressed.

Trade declines were not so severe, however, as to retard an increasing interest in style. Several new trends threatened to change the industry's entire seasonal set-up. The new matching ensemble suit with shirt and slacks or jacket and slacks to match had the effect of limiting regular spring suit sales as did also the new and more practical ideas developed in spring and summer wash suit fabrics.

Greater styling in the mohair types, the introduction of new acetate yarns, the increasing popularity of gabardines, and a limited interest in silk as a clothing fabric, all had an influence.

Along with a greater acceptance of soft goods in suitings, including cheviots, shetlands, tweeds, etc., came a more marked interest in the so-called 'drape' model jacket. The trend was definitely in the direction of greater comfort without sacrificing style smartness.

The sports back suit, so popular in 1936 and 1937, lost considerable ground in 1938, and predictions were made that during 1938 it would account for only about 10 per cent of the total suit demand.

The coat with removable lining, designed to convert a topcoat into an overcoat, threatened to create interest in a one-coat instead of a two-coat customer. However, this type of garment failed to make the sweeping gains many believed it would, though the industry is still watching it closely.

Green, generally conceded to be one of the dangerous colors in men's apparel, emerged from the shadows during 1938 and gave promise of being top notch during the spring of 1939. The popular new greens are mostly a harmony of green and blue and green with other color tones, rather than pure green.

The steady march to supremacy of slide-fastener equipped trousers gathered momentum during the year. Interest in the popular gadget for use on shirts, underwear and pajamas also increased and the snap buttons for underwear shorts grew in popularity. It was a year during which the button industry lost considerable prestige.

The use of Lastex yarns in swim suits and underwear became more important. In swim suits, garments were further abbreviated; made to fit closer; and in most sections of the country, the upper portion of the garment was dropped entirely.

Tyrolean hats were in strong demand and the sports influence became accentuated as braided bands, colored feathers and new rough fabric felts were introduced.

Volume of Business.

Figures from the current Census Survey of Business inform us that among independent men's clothing and furnishings stores, volume during the first half of the year dropped 16.7 per cent over the same period in 1937. However, the loss during the first quarter was 18.1 per cent and was cut down to 15.7 per cent during the second quarter.

No Government figures are available for the period following, but preliminary reports which we receive monthly would indicate that holiday trade was about on a par with last year and the year as a whole will end up only about 12.5 per cent behind 1937.

When we consider the tremendous odds the clothing industry worked against during the past twelve months, a more substantial decline might readily have been expected.

While 1937 volume was somewhat ahead of 1938 among men's apparel stores, the downward trend had already started toward the latter part of 1937 and spread during the early months of the new year. January was a slow month and with inventories heavier in February than they should be, commitments for summer goods were sluggish.

The late Easter season helped to put March volume far below normal. Sales declined more than 25 per cent over the same month in 1937. The record for the first quarter was decidedly dismal.

April brought a temporary upturn and although pre-Easter sales failed to reach the pre-Easter volume of the previous year, totals for the month went substantially ahead of April 1937. Then in May sales dropped off again, despite numerous promotion events and in June the upward trend of the stock market and favorable farm conditions in most sections failed to aid retail sales. There was another swift downward trend that was just as quickly checked in July.

August was considered to be a normal month in the industry. At the end of the 10 month period volume for the year was shown to be off approximately 13.6 per cent and comparatively little took place to alter that figure during the following two months.

Too much emphasis is sometimes placed on the weather in fixing the blame for retarded volume in the men's apparel industry. There can be no doubt, however, that a cool summer and late fall and winter contributed much to fluctuating conditions in the industry during 1938. Advances made possible by an improved economic situation were successfully blocked by weather conditions unfavorable to the apparel business.

Retailers made an effort during the year to have the WPA buy up excess clothing stocks on their shelves. Though unsuccessful in their efforts, the extensive purchases made by the WPA from manufacturers, placed the industry in a healthier condition and undoubtedly aided the retailer, at least indirectly.

Credit conditions remained almost constant during the 12-month period. There was a tendency to expand terms somewhat and the 'third a month' or 90 day plan increased in popularity. No sharp declines in collections were to be noted due to careful and efficient follow-up.

With an even break in the weather and no unforeseen catastrophes, men's apparel merchants are convinced that 1939 will be a better year than 1938.