1939: Men's Apparel Industry

Despite wars and rumors of wars, despite an erratic stock market, despite rising prices, widespread labor strikes, unseasonable weather and all the other troubles that have plagued the average merchant, the year 1939 will go down in history as a satisfactory year for the men's apparel industry.

Most significant, perhaps, is the fact that during its entire length there were no serious setbacks; there was not a month when the majority of stores did not show a sales pick-up over the corresponding period in 1938. It was a year marked by minor recessions counterbalanced by advances. It was a year when pessimism and gloom which had settled over all business in the wake of European catastrophe was overcome by the prospects of accelerated trade at home. In short, normal trade results were secured in one of the most abnormal periods in history.

A downward sales trend that made itself felt among men's apparel stores in 1938 began to reverse itself during the holiday period a year ago and the lead thus gained was carried through, almost uninterruptedly during 1939.

Whereas 1938 volume fell approximately 12 per cent behind 1937, holiday sales for the month of December were 10 per cent ahead. It proved a good omen for 1939.

Clearance sales were started early and, encouraged by the previous month's pick-up, considerable promotion was employed with the result that a majority of stores showed an improvement over the previous January and freely predicted that 1939 was destined to be a better year than its predecessor. All sections of the country reported advances. A sharper improvement was to be noted in February. Three-fourths of the stores were found doing as well or better than the previous February and an average improvement of 17 per cent was noted by 56 per cent of the members of the industry's National Business Committee. Overcoat volume was way off but suits and furnishings made up for it.

Easter business was better than during the previous year with an average pick-up of 16 per cent reported. By this time the European situation was becoming more acute, however, and many merchants were considering it the greatest single factor in the retarding of progress.

In April, the stores were unable to hold the lead gained during the previous months. Again there was a marked degree of uncertainty in business circles. Then in May stores in all sections of the country were reporting their best gains of the year. The improvement over the same period in 1938 averaged almost 23 per cent and at least some of the gain was attributed to the growing interest in sports attire which was fast opening up new and more profitable markets.

At the close of the first half almost 80 per cent of the reports noted an improvement over the first six months of 1938. The average increase was 12 per cent. Father's Day, the most successful ever celebrated, put the month of June on the profit side of the ledger.

Throughout the year an increase in extended payment plans was noted. The 90-day, third-a-month plan, continued to grow in popularity and was supplemented by the coupon credit plan, enabling purchasers to make small purchases as well as large with coupon books purchased on the budget plan. Collections remained much the same as the previous year.

A credit survey revealed that 46 per cent of sales in the industry today are for cash; 54 per cent credit. Of this 54 per cent, 33 per cent is on a straight 30-day charge basis; 21 per cent on various budget plans.

The trend of style during 1939 proved a decided asset to the men's apparel merchants and was responsible in some degree for the satisfactory results obtained.

As previously noted, the interest in special sports attire widened. The slack ensemble became practically an essential in the average man's wardrobe and there was sufficient change in styles and fabrics to assure a continuous and strengthened demand.

Matching sports shirts and slacks both in solid colors and contrasting colors sold well. Crashes were supplemented by gabardines, rayons and other fabrics. In regular business suits, more variety in fabric was introduced. Tweeds and other rough fabrics, gabardines and some coverts vied with unfinished worsteds. The public began to show interest in the two-piece suit for Spring and Fall, the garment often being worn with a sleeveless sweater instead of matching vest.

The three-button jacket practically put the two-button model out of the running. Fancy back suits became somewhat passé and the loose-fitting, more comfortable drape model enjoyed stronger popularity than during the previous year. Younger men took to the Hollywood models with their shirred and tucked waists, etc.

There was a newly aroused interest in body hats that largely replaced the sailor type in many sections. This new trend was brought about by the development of novelty weaves that made for more comfortable and at the same time economical summer headwear.

In spring and fall headwear, the sports influence was accentuated. Hat ribbons almost disappeared, as silk cords, leather cords and felt bands became popular. Colorful feathers played an important part.

Merchants watched carefully the development of yarns made from coal, used in the production of fine hosiery; glass threads woven into neckwear; elastic glass converted into belts, garters and suspenders. The interest in Lastex yarns for bathing suits, supporting undergarments, hosiery tops, etc., continued strong. The garter industry suffered another blow as the public gave further recognition to self-supporting hose.

The use of slide-fasteners on men's apparel of every type advanced along with the new heavy-duty snap fasteners. Both played havoc with the button industry. The slide fastener became standard equipment for, practically all trouser lines and the topcoat with slide-fastened lining increased its popularity.

Variety was added to summer sports shoes with the featuring of air-conditioned mesh fabrics combined with tan leathers in contrasting colors.

New color shades in clothing and furnishings stimulated sales. Off-shades of green were popular early in the year, giving way during the latter months to shades of blue. Stylists saw the United States the leading men's style center of the world as Britain turned its attention away from dress apparel and concentrated on heavy production of military attire.

With business running on a fairly even keel, great strides were made in modernization. Streamlined store fronts; air-conditioning for summer and winter comfort; fluorescent and other types of modern lighting, were made part of extensive modernization programs that helped considerably to keep the public in a buying mood.